St. Lawrence University’s Study Abroad students at Payap University have recently returned from an excursion to the important historical sites at Sukhothai and Phitsanuloke.
Payap University has posted photos on the web at http://info.payap.ac.th/album/2550/20090928001/General01/?site=9&id=20090928007.
The Thai script at the top of the page reads:
“From September 23-26, the 32 international students in the Thai and Southeast Asian Studies Program, under the direction of the Office of International Affairs, were taken on an educational excursion to the historical sites at Sukhothai and the province of Phitsanuloke to study the art, culture, and history of Thailand, being also joined by faculty and students from Naresuan University in Phitsanuloke.”
Sukhothai and Phitsanuloke are both very important in the history of Thailand/Siam, both are home to rich archeological remains, and both have been developed by the Thai authorities into attractive and easily accessible destinations for both Thai and international tourists.
Sukhothai, the first of the two cities, has in recent years been designated a United Nations World Heritage Site. From the 1250s to the late 1300s it was the capital of a significant independent Thai kingdom, one of the first major kingdoms to be created by the Thai people after they had moved into the lowland plains of present-day Thailand. For a short time the kings at Sukhothai either ruled or influenced most of the area of present-day Thailand, including parts of northwestern Laos and the (present-day) Burmese port of Moulmein. Sukhothai is therefore considered by most Thai to be the “first capital of Thailand,” though it was actually the center of an independent Thai kingdom that would later by absorbed by a more southerly one that called itself “Siam” and is the direct predecessor of the kingdom known today as “Thailand.”
Sukhothai is also significant for its major contributions to Thai culture and religion. One of its first rulers, King Ramkhamhaeng, claimed to be the first person to create and use the alphabet that would become the direct predecessor of the Thai writing system today. He is also probably the first Thai king that we know for certain was Theravada Buddhist, and his stone inscriptions suggest the religion was very strong and meaningful in the capital region when he reigned. Later, during the 1300s, Sukhothai became a major center of Buddhist learning, piety, and scholarship. Its artisans created the famous “walking Buddhas” that make the historical site so popular. In the mid-1300s, one of Sukhothai’s kings also wrote the “Traiphum [Three Worlds] katha,” a comprehensive description of the abodes of the gods, the earthly abode of humans, and the underworlds of nagas, giants, and various kinds of spirits. This work, also known to scholars as the “Traiphum” or “the Three Worlds cosmology,” was was until the mid-1800s foundational to the way most Thai Buddhists conceived of the universe. Though many of its conceptions have been changed by modern science, geography, and astronomy, most Thai Buddhists continue to be influenced by its descriptions of how the world works on a “moral” or “supernatural” level, and why it works that way.
As for Phitsanoloke, it is today considered by many Thai to be the “Gateway to the North.” This designation arises from the period, roughly from the late 1300s to the mid-1700s, when Chiangmai was the center of an independent kingdom known as Lanna (”A Million Rice Fields”) that shared a direct border with a more southerly kingdom based at Ayutthaya that called itself “Sayam.” Ayutthaya, the direct predecessor of the kingdom that is now “Thailand,” had already been founded in 1350, but it did not share a direct border with Chiangmai until after it had absorbed Sukhothai into its realms shortly afterward. Throughout that four hundred years of direct contact there was frequent warfare between Siam (Ayutthaya) and Chiangmai, and on their way northward to Chiangmai the Siamese armies often passed through Phitsanuloke. To more effectively manage the wars against Chiangmai, the Siamese kings sometimes even moved their capitals north to this “Gateway” city.